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06 July 2010F400 Go kart Racing tips and tricksF400 Go kart Racing tips and tricksHi Teams and Drivers,
Philip was kind enough to draft this mail with tips, and hints to get your F400 kart to a good finishing position. Before I forget, there are 7 Green air filters available, of which 2 have been reserved, so if your team needs one, you can get hold of Philip on 0824569773, these will be sold on a a first come first serve basis. More will be available later, when the new shipment arrives. The F400 Karting series is growing from race to race; and we currently have 34 teams with karts with more being sold and prepared. The F400 Club strives to keep the racing equal and competitive for all teams by preparing the engines to equal specification and by only utilising one engine builder. Although we continually strive to ensure that all engines are equal in performance, it is not always possible to get them 100% equal, and we have learnt that the Honda engine takes quite a while to properly run in, and achieve its peak performance. In a recent Dyno session where two of the motors which reportedly are the strongest were compared to a brand new motor, we found that the old motors which had not been opened or touched in any way during the last year of racing were marginally up on both HP and Torque over the new motor. We then proceeded to strip the best motor and tested each of the following components taken off the best motor on the new motor and found: Carburettor - no change in performance Engine Timing key - no change in performance Head - no change in performance This proved the equality of the engine components, and our theory. We will be defining a standard dyno procedure, and making this facility available to teams to evaluate their engine performance in the near future. It looks like these engines achieve their best performance after around 40 hours of running. So for all teams who need an excuse to go and practice, not only will your engines performance improve, so will your driving performance. The main aim of this email is to try and give tips on how to improve your racing performance and also just as importantly how to prepare a F400 race kart to get you to the end of the race. These tips have worked for us so it's our teams opinion on what improves our karts. It's good for a team to keep a log of what their current kart setup is and then make ONE change at a given time (Anyone making several changes won't quite know what cured the problem be it a under-steering kart (Front end is washing out) or a over-steering kart (Rear End is very loose) Also understanding that some karts based on their current setup might have to go the opposite way depending how wide their front or rear wheels are. Let's start with the front and we are running our tire pressure at 1.3 bar all round, it's generally a good starting point. Check that your axle is equal length on either side (If not adjust accordingly) A base point for the rear end is a total width from outside of your rims of around 137cm, move each hub 1cm out and check if your rear is any better or change and go 1cm in on either side. Also you can increase your tire pressures, loosen your rear bumper bar (If your kart has one or slightly loosen your bumper) If it's already loose tighten it up and see how the kart reacts. Longer rear hubs could also improve your rear or check what type of axle you running as you might need to run a softer axle. For more flex on the outside of your axle you can turn your bearings that the grub-screws face the inside rather than the outside. Some karts allow you to setup your rear axle for long wheelbase but rather use the closer setting (Short wheelbase settings) Ride height can also be raised to improve rear exit corner grip Seat stay from top of seat to left bearing carrier and one from engine to top of seat thus helping push the kart down on either side with the added benefit of additional bracing on your seat putting less strain on just one point. NOTE Seat adjustment is crucial to your karts setup as this affects the weight distribution thus affecting front and rear grip the most. If you want approximate seat adjustment measure from the top centre position of the seat to the front left stub axle bolt and distance should be between 103cm and 105cm. (Seat height can also be raised as will help with pushing the kart into the corners) Tire pressure should be used first to see if it improves grip, depending how bad your kart is handling Engine Use NGK BP6ES or BP7ES
as this will help with engine performance and check valve clearances.
Take spark-plug out and turn engine till piston reaches top dead centre
(Use a screwdriver to feel piston reach top dead centre pull slightly
so piston is about to drop. Feel your valve and check your clearances,
Exhaust Valve on your left (0.020) Inlet Valve on your Right (0.015).
Make sure these are your setting once tightened as locking the valves
is a bit of an art. (Put spark-plug back in carefully (By Hand) as it's very easy to cross thread)
To protect your engine
changing of oil after every race does increase engine life no matter
what people tell you about oil quality, the only engines that have
picked up badly on the conrod & crank have been due to bad quality
oil and few oil changes. (Think Formula One or NASCAR would they run
one race old oil in a new engine? No / So the fact your engine should
last three or four seasons is even more reason to look after it now)
After a race take your
spark-plug out and get piston to top dead centre thus not putting any
strain on your valve springs which will eventually soften them causing
your valve to float
Pull Rope should be
replaced after at least every 8 race events for some even less because
of the typical angle the rope is been pulled it starts to cut the rope
ever so slightly. Again when it breaks it won't be during a practice
session but during a race.
Clutches Clutch Bearings should be greased from race event to race event thus making the clutch more affective during race events.
NOTE: Don't sit on the
grid with brake and throttle open as you can overheat the clutch
causing it to lock up or damaging the shoes and springs. For standing
starts only increase revs marginally when the COC has the flag in the
air.
Drive Belt Teams should fit a spare belt on their axle just in case
Dunlop Tires These tires have proven
to be very consist with new tires having a slight advantage over used
tires at the beginning of a race day but they do eventually even out.
Tires that have been run in races and then practices time and time
again do tend to drop off as they have many heat build-ups on them
making the rubber harder. Dunlop Tires sides walls are the same both
sides so you can turn your tires around on your rim giving them a
longer life span. (Don't leave your kart out or leave in the sun as
this does harden your tires)
Some of your rims have
3 tire bolts which is there to help keep the tire on the rim in extreme
racing conditions, these bolts have rubbers on them to prevent leakage
and should be checked before race day as they do tend to break at the
worst of times.
If you have a spare set
of rims try to separate by using older race tires or spare tires as
practice tires and your race tires only for race events as this will
benefit you on the race track. If your tires are very warn then before
you finish practicing quickly put on your race tires for a short
session to check out the karts handling.
Fuel Some fuels tend to
perform better than others, on the Dyno we found that Engen 95 unleaded
yielded 0.5HP more than the equivalent Sasol fuel, with no changes
whatsoever to the motor or carb The fuel recommended by our engine
builder is Engen 95 unleaded.
Race day Hints Early morning increase
your tire pressure for qualifying and practice and slowly decrease
during the day according to how your kart is handling.
Brakes Your brakes were
actually designed for short 20 to 25 lap races weighing at least 10kg
heavier than your typical 2-stroke kart it's a team and drivers
responsibility to look after your brakes as much as you can.
Off the race track make
sure you bleed your brakes before each race and also set your brakes
that brake pad travel is reduced as much as possible thus keeping brake
fluid from overheating which can cause bubbles thus reducing braking
pressure. Check during the race intervals and adjust pad travel
accordingly.
Try to not ride your
brakes as some drivers feel throttle plus brake is faster which is
debatable but definitely heavier on both brakes and clutch so it's your
choice
Any changes made to the kart always go and test for durability e.g. Pull Rope / Increasing Tire Pressure / Rim Bolts Rubbers
Spares I know you can't keep
everything required to keep a kart on the track but some of the basic's
items and then some items which you should look at purchasing over time
Accelerator cable
Front steering arms
General nuts, bolts and washers
Spark Plug
Fuel Hose
Cable Ties
Hose Clamps
Springs
Duct Tape
Plumbers tape (Leaking Wheel bolts or leaking brake bolts)
Brake Fluid
Bearing Lubricant
Brake Pads
Axle (Long Term)
Rims (Long Term)
General Tools Required Tire Pump + pressure gauge
Spanner set from size 8 to 17
Sockets set with extensions from sizes 8 to 22
Allen key set
Screw Drivers
Pliers Set
Hope some of the information given does help you race faster and more reliably
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